Casoli - Tuscany

WHERE ON EARTH IS CASOLI?

Casoli is a village situated in the UNESCO nominated Alpi Apuane mountain range, 8km from the Versilia coast and the Tirannean sea, 33km from Lucca, 37km from Pisa Airport, 60km from the Cinque Terre, 20km from Torre del Lago and the Puccini Opera House, 14km Pietra Santa and Forte dei Marmi, 110 km from Florence. A spectacular mountain – sea location. In the space of a morning, it is possible to bathe in the sea, row on the lake, and return to the mountains. Casoli above Camaiore is not to be confused with another Casoli at an hour’s distance on the other side of Lucca near Bagni di Lucca.

Standing waist deep in the sea, looking inland to the soaring white slashed marble mountains of Carrara and to their densely forested surrounds where Casoli nestles with other ancient hidden villages, it’s impossible not to feel a shiver of wonder at this spectacular example of nature’s imagination. An area of dramatic contracts: 60km of white marble mountains (UNESCO), 30 km of sandy beaches and safe seas, the mountainous nature park of the Alpi Apuane (UNESCO), 30 magnificent kilometres of San Rossore nature reserve running along the coast from Pisa to Viareggio, 20km from the charming lake of Torre del Lago – inspiration for the immortal opera’s of Giacomo Puccini and home to the omonimo opera house.

An area that has inspired sculptors and artists from pre-historic times to the present day; an area that yielded, exclusively, the raw material, to Romans for the contruction of magnificent cities of art in Italy and throughout their Empire and to Michelangelo and the Renaissance sculptors.

Spilling over from this geological wonder, the surrounding forested hills and extensive olive groved terraces, rich in rivers and waterfalls, ancient mule tracks perfect for hiking, rock faces famous to climbers all over the world, hide tiny 1000 year old villages, close-knit mountain communites, traditional ways of life and gastronomical surprizes.

CASOLI VILLAGE

Casoli village spans out on two levels, each having it’s particular characteristic and united in being a fasinating open-air art gallery. Since the 1950’s when the artist Rosario Murabito, already famous in the U.S. fell in love with Casoli and began the tradition of executing works of art on walls of this delightful labyrinthian village, Casoli became a magnet for artists and visitors from all over the world. In June every year the village celebrates “Graffitti” with a professional artist selected for the year, executing a new work of art.

There is a coffee bar-cum- shop-cum-light- lunch hub where locals mingle with hikers and artists to enjoy lunch, wine or a game of cards, with a view.

20 minutes by foot up the hill (3 minutes by car) is a delightful family run restaurant with stunning views over the valley to the sea. Il Chiosco nel Bosco.

In these mountains there are no less than 10 mountain refuges, some offering accommodation, some food. All of them stunning views and unspoiled wild places. The weather can change rapidly and unexpectedly in this micro climate and hikers are advized to set out in appropriate clothing.

CASOLI’S ARTISTIC HISTORY

At the distance of a challenging trek into the mountains above Casoli, it is possible to find a cavern with the faded remains of neolithic art scratchings. The start of Casoli’s noble artistic heritage? The glorious years when Casoli became an effervescent artistic hub revolved around the forty years between 1950 and 1990. Sparked by Rosario Murabito, already a mighty figure in the international art scene,who, visiting the village from Pietra Santa where he was working on a collosal sculpture commissioned by the Metropolitan Opera New York, fell in love with the village and it’s natural setting.

His American actress wife, Grace, so it is said in the village, fell in love with the early morning scent of wild thyme with which the villagers had carpeted the path in readiness for a traditional procession to the Church. They purchased the Villa Padronale in the village and lived there for the rest of their lives. A prolific period artistically for Murabito. A natual attraction to friends and colleagues in the art world, who visited, sometimes bought their own villas, created, and ate. Restaurants expanded and thrived.

House Parties rotated regularly over days; painters, sculptors, poets, writers, photographers, art critics, museum directors, editors, and with them, actors and actresses of international fame: Orson Wells, Audrey Hepburn, Henry Moore. Mondadori’s villa close to Casoli; the poet Raffeaeli Carrieri’s villa at the bottom of the hill leading to Casoli; half way up the hill, beautiful mysterious Villa Casone, Franco Russoli’s art labyrinth in the heart of the village (Casa Ceri B&B). While decorating the house, a village elder indicated where an original Picasso painting had hung.

Franco Russoli as Director of the famous Brera Art Gallery in Rome had arranged the first exhibition in Italy by the artist. Down the hill in Camaiore the Time photographer Douglas Duncan snapped a series of photographs of Picasso which remain in the custody of the Museum in Camaiore. Not so much as a dust shadow testimony of the painting remained in Casa Ceri, but it antique engravings and books took their place comfortably in the decor.

Today, the village continues to attract artists and sculptors who have made their home here, coming and going as their international exhibitions permit. The spectacular beauty of the natural location of the village, the peace, the easy-going community, proximity to the legendary home of sculpture and sculptors, Pietra Santa, and to the marble of Carrara, are unchanging magnets.